What colour tie goes with your suit?

Burgundy is the cornerstone, followed by grey, brown and deep green. A navy tie on a navy suit is very Italian, provided the tie has texture, such as a grenadine or shantung, so it stays distinct from the cloth. Avoid black.

Navy is the default and very hard to beat. Deep burgundy, purple and green add warmth. Avoid black, which reads as a uniform or a funeral, and mid grey, which disappears into the suit.

Navy first, then burgundy, purple, green and mid blue. Purple sits on mid grey better than on any other suit colour, and a textured brown tie is the Neapolitan choice. Avoid grey or silver ties, which flatten the outfit, and black.

Silver or grey. They echo evening wear and keep the look cool and quiet. Deep burgundy, navy and purple also work. A black tie is correct only after dark or at a funeral, and brown or orange ties fight a black suit.

With a bright or royal blue suit, wear navy, burgundy, brown or grey. They calm the blue rather than compete with it. Avoid a mid blue tie, which turns the outfit into a matching set, and black.

Green is the most natural partner, followed by navy, gold and burgundy. Brown suits want the warm side of the colour wheel, with navy as the cool contrast. Never black, and avoid grey, which looks muddy.

Navy, burgundy, brown or gold. Light blue is the Italian default shirt, and the only trap is a tie in a similar pale blue. Go much darker, or move to the warm side.

Navy is the standing answer, with grey and deep green close behind. Pink is soft and warm, so it wants a darker, cooler tie. Avoid pink and bright red ties.

Almost always. The tie has to stand clearly apart from the shirt, and the most reliable way to do that is to make it darker. A pale tie on a pale shirt disappears at conversational distance. The traditional exception is a silver tie on a white shirt at a daytime wedding.

Either works, as long as it contrasts. On navy, charcoal and black suits most good ties are a little lighter or brighter than the cloth; on light grey, stone and tan suits a darker tie anchors the outfit. What fails is a tie in the same tone as the suit, unless its texture sets it apart.

For business or an interview, no. In Italy a black tie belongs to mourning and to evening wear, so with a daytime suit it looks severe. Navy, burgundy or grey does the same job better. At an evening event, a black silk tie with a dark suit is correct.

Navy. It works with navy, charcoal, grey, blue, brown and stone suits, with white, light blue and pink shirts, and from the office to a wedding. If you own only one tie, make it a navy grenadine. Burgundy is a close second.

Navy or burgundy, plain or finely patterned. Navy reads as trustworthy and calm, and burgundy as confident without being loud. Avoid black, which looks severe, and anything bright or novel. The tie should earn trust and then disappear.

A wedding is the day for lighter colours: silver, pale blue, pink and lilac, or a floral or paisley pattern. Silver with a grey suit is the classic. Don’t upstage the groom, and leave black for funerals.

Change the kind of pattern and the scale. Never wear stripes on stripes of a similar width. With a striped shirt, choose a plain tie or one with dots, paisley or a medallion. With a checked shirt, choose a plain tie or an organic pattern that is clearly larger than the check.

The tip should just touch the top of your belt buckle. The blade should roughly match your jacket lapel at its widest point. Around 8 cm suits most jackets. Tie it in a four-in-hand with a single dimple.

Grenadine, or garza, is silk woven on a leno loom in Como. The open weave gives it a texture that is formal enough for the boardroom and relaxed enough for the weekend, and it works in every season. If you own only one tie, make it a navy grenadine.

A black silk bow tie, self-tied if possible. Midnight navy is the only traditional alternative. A long tie with a dinner jacket is a fashion choice, not black tie.